If you do not know the blade size, do not guess a specification and hope it mounts. You can still start from information you already have: the original size if anyone wrote it down, a photo of the old blade, the product label, the saw brand and model, a nameplate photo, and the material plus its size. Partial information is enough to begin. DEKOLY uses what you send to judge what else is needed before you buy.
Send Any of These—You Do Not Need All of Them
- Original blade size written on a carton, job sheet, or the band itself (length × width × thickness × TPI).
- Photo of the old blade, including the weld area and a tooth close-up. Keep a ruler or caliper in the frame if you can.
- Product label or packaging from the last loop, even if the band is gone.
- Saw brand and model, and whether it is a benchtop, horizontal cutoff, vertical wood saw, or portable.
- Machine nameplate showing model and any listed blade length.
- What you cut and how big it is—solid vs tube, wall, lumber thickness—so TPI can be discussed after length is real.
How to turn a stamp or a wheel path into a length is in how to measure length. How to parse the four numbers is in how to read blade specs.
What Partial Information Can and Cannot Do
A model name is a start, not a finished spec. Length often changes inside one retail series (risers, deep-cut frames, compact vs standard portables). “Milwaukee portable” or “14-inch wood saw” is not a length. A material name without section does not set TPI. A competitor SKU is a clue; it is not a verified loop until you match it to a measured blade or a nameplate.
Portable saws are the one place where a well-known model often maps to a short list of lengths—still confirm on the old blade or the nameplate. See portable sizes. Width and thickness still have to fit the guides you have; length alone does not prove the beam will enter them.
What to Photograph First
| What you have | What it usually confirms | Still missing |
|---|---|---|
| Stamp or carton label | Length, and often width / thickness / TPI | Material and saw if you also want pitch advice |
| Old blade, no print | Width, thickness, tooth count, construction clues | Length (measure or nameplate) |
| Nameplate only | A candidate length for that model | Width, thickness, TPI; series variants |
| Material + size only | A TPI discussion, not a SKU | The four blade numbers |
| Broken pieces only | Width, thickness, tooth form | Full length unless a stamped piece remains |
Shop What You Know; Ask About the Rest
If length is already certain, open that collection—72-1/2", 93-1/2", or another size—and match width and TPI there. Otherwise browse all blades, metal cutting, or wood cutting. Pitch help: metal TPI guide. More articles in Blade Guides. Send photos and the model through Contact DEKOLY instead of inventing a size.
FAQ
Can you pick a blade from the machine model alone?
We can start there. Many models share a length; some do not. A nameplate photo plus any old blade photo is stronger than the retail name by itself.
I only know I am cutting 2-inch steel bar. Is that enough?
That helps TPI, not length or width. The saw still has to accept the loop. Send the saw or the old blade with the bar size.
The previous owner threw the old blade away. Now what?
Photograph the nameplate and the guide opening. If the manual or a sticker on the frame lists a length, use that and confirm tension travel before you order a stack.
Should I order the next size down if I am unsure?
No. A short loop will not tension; a long loop may not mount. Confirm length first. Guessing smaller is not safer.
